Lüsener Fernerkogel north ridge – „the Matterhorn of North Tirol“

Description

Due to its stunning shape, the Lüsener Fernerkogel is also called the “Matterhorn of North Tyrol”! Even on the approach toward Lüsens, you can see its impressive north face and understand why!
The North Ridge offers a spectacular and challenging alternative to the normal route without being truly difficult (maximum UIAA III-). The climbing mostly follows the ridge line, is consistently engaging, and provides fantastic views of the surrounding peaks in the Sellrain. And the best part: you’re almost always alone!

 

 

 

 

The Climb

Meeting point is around midday on day 1 at the parking lot in Lüsens. After a brief introduction, we start the joint ascent to the Westfalen-Haus, with the impressive north face of the Lüsener Fernerkogel constantly in view. After about 3 hours, we reach the hut, where we can plan the next day over coffee and cake on the sunny terrace!
(By arrangement, the tour is also possible in one day from the parking lot in Lüsens for those with strong endurance, but this requires an ascent of over 1,600 meters and about 12 hours of hiking.)
On day 2, the approach starts early in the headlamp’s glow. From the hut, we first descend briefly to reach the route’s start. The climb begins over steep grassy slopes, regularly interrupted by exciting climbing sections. As we go higher, the climbing gets steeper and the ridge more exposed—we mostly stick right along the ridge edge! In the upper section, there’s engaging block climbing on solid rock before we reach the summit. At the top, we enjoy a summit snack while taking in sweeping views of the surrounding peaks of the Stubai Alps and admiring the impressive glacier landscape. The descent follows the normal route, first over the Rotgratferner, then down the “plattige Wand” to the Lüsenerferner, and further on to the marked hiking trail through the so-called “Mauer.” This area offers a true high-alpine atmosphere and requires full glacier equipment.

 

Price

  • €1000 with a private mountain guide
  • With 2 participants: €600 per person 

The one-day option:

  • €800 with a private mountain guide
  • With 2 participants: €500 per person

Requirements

  • Fitness for 1000 meters of ascent and approx. 10 hours
  • Surefootedness and a good head for heights
  • Experience in mountaineering and easy scrambling
  • Experience with crampons

Participants

1-2 participants

 

Duration

  • 2 days
  • end of tour around 17:00

Our tip

Perfect preparation for major Western Alps tours like the Matterhorn, Eiger, or Zinalrothorn – ask us about your dream tour!

Looking for something a bit easier? Check out the normal route up the Lüsener Fernerkogel!

Why choose us

  • Lokal mountain guides with excellent local knowledge
  • Personalized guidance and flexible tour planning
  • Small group size

Lüsener Fernerkogel north ridge – „the Matterhorn of North Tirol“

 1 000,00

Due to its stunning shape, the Lüsener Fernerkogel is also called the “Matterhorn of North Tyrol.” The North Ridge offers a spectacular and challenging alternative to the normal route without being truly difficult (maximum UIAA III-)!      

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